BOGNER CAVEMAN Manual

1. Direct Input When using either of the direct channel inputs, make sure that: a. the desired channel is selected (via footswitch or rear panel selector) b. the pre-loop switch is "on" with nothing plugged into it. (If the footswitch is being used, make sure the rear panel selector for all the buttons are "out" and turn "on" the selected channel and pre-loop from the footswitch external switching unit.)

2. Channel Switching Input & Pre-Loop Aside from allowing you to change channels with the flick of a switch (foot, rear panel, etc.) any effects you would normally use before the amp (wah, fuzz, Overdrive etc.) can go into the pre-loop signal path when using this input. This way, there's less signal loss from the guitar to the amp and it enables you to use a footswitch able master. "Truer" bypass for your chain of stomp boxes. Some of you may still prefer the color an effect can have when placed pre-input. None the less, the pre-loop function is an option for those of you who like as much clarity as control. So experiment!

3. Parallel Post-Loop This feature allows you to use delays, reverbs, multi-fx units etc. without clipping and overloading your signal. It can be used in either direct or channel switching modes and can be manually or remotely bypassed. To use the post-loop, follow these instructions: a. Turn the send trim pot and return trim pot all the way down. b. Take the send into the input of your effect and the output of the effect back into the return. c. Turn the send trim up in relativity to the input level of your effect. d. Set the mix of the effect-unit(s) to be more "wet" than "dry". Unlike a series post-loop, there is a constant dry sound in order to preserve the tone of the amp when it gets "effected". So don't be shy, depending on your unit, you may want to set it all 'wet". e. Turn the return trim up slowly. Again, depending on your effect, you may only need to turn it up a pinch. If you need to hear more effect, try turning up the output of your effect before turning up the return trim. *Note: When the post-loop is not in use, i.e. nothing is plugged into it, be sure the return trim pot is all the way down or you may hear some unwanted cross-oscillation.

4. Schizo This rotary switch allows you to drastically alter the parameters and responsiveness of the channels, independently.

Here's a rough layout of its functions:

Dirty

1 Dark Deeper bass

2 Bright Loose feel

3 Brighter

4 Dark Tighter bass

5 Bright Tighter feel

6 Brighter

 

Clean

1 Normal Dark

2 Low-end & mid-boost

3 Normal Bright

4 Low-end &mid-boost

5 Normal

6 Low-end & mid-boost

As a suggestion, set the tone knobs to twelve o'clock, then go through the Schizo positions to find which bandwidth you like. Then you can fine-tune with the tone knobs and tailor your sound.

5. Boost The boost for the clean channel is fixed, while the boost for the dirty channel is adjustable with the Gain Boost control. Use it wisely.

6. Vintage/Modern Switch This switch works in conjunction with the presence control. While vintage mode feels warmer and rounder, modern has clarity and tightness. Give it a whirl and see which one you like.

7. Power Switch The low position is around 30 watts while the high is 60. The amp will sound and react very differently, so check it out soft at 60 as well as loud at 30 (if the neighbors permit). *Note: Be sure to always have a speaker plugged in from the amp even on standby. If you need to change speaker cabinets, turn the amp off.

8. Line Level This out is for bi-amping and is not intended for use as a recording out. Be sure to raise the level slowly when in use and keep a speaker plugged into the amp.